38km, 3350m (10,992ft) elevation gain, 2467m (8094ft) elevation loss.
The Augerpoint Traverse is a hike through the mountains and on the ridges from Buttle Lake to Mount Washington. A lot of people will start at the Mount Washington side, the elevation starts in your favour but the final descent down Jack's Trail to Buttle Lake is a knee killer. I opted to start from the Buttle Lake side and climb the 4000 feet or so to the first camp with fresh legs.
If you've ever been driving down Buttle Lake to the Ralph River Campground or Myra Falls area and noticed a great big blue arrow spray painted on the road and pointing into the bushes, this is the trailhead!
I had been planning this hike for over a year now. It's been about 45 days since we've seen any decent rain here, everything is super dry, and Environment Canada has issued a heat warning for the area. It sure was a scorcher up there! I was also having GPS issues this time and couldn't fully rely on it. There's so many trails that head off in every direction, even out there in the middle nowhere. You really need to be paying attention and be able to figure out where to go if you're having issues with your devices. Because of the GPS issues, I do not have an accurate track. This hike was likely much longer than 38km.
Day 1 - Buttle Lake to Camp 1, Jack's Peak 9.59km, 1553m elevation gain, 372m elevation loss.
Thank you Tracey for getting up early on your day off to drive me to the trailhead, it's almost 2 hours each way. My heart was racing but I didn't mention it to Tracey at the time. I didn't want to make her more nervous about the whole adventure. We said our goodbye's and I watched them leave, Dax of course wanting to join. No going back now! I started heading up at 9:45am.
Jack's Trail is named after its creator Jack Shark and is an easy to follow path up the mountain but it is a steep hike! 4438 feet of gain in only 6.12km. The trip up was slow but eventually I got to the first campsite option (49.6863, -125.5150) at 1pm. I had originally planned to hike further and make camp at the start of the ridge to Jack's Peak but everything was dry. I decided not to risk hiking further to an unknown water source and set up camp here. It was probably the right decision.
There were a thousand tadpoles in the tarn but when that's your only water source, you'll drink it and enjoy it! Just make sure to filter your frog water.
At 2pm a runner came into camp from the Mount Washington direction. We chatted briefly. He said that he started 6am. That's insane!!
Another couple came into camp shortly after. They were going to go further in however one of their boots sole had started to separate. They stuck around for the night, may as well enjoy the sunset view.
After setting up camp and eating lunch, I packed my daypack and started on my trip to Jack's Peak which loomed 310m above the campsite. It was nice to be wearing a lighter pack. I made it to the base of the ridge where I was originally going to camp. The tarns were bone dry. It would have been a tough day if I got to this point with my full bag only to realize there was no water.
I made my way up the ridge to the peak and signed the Diego notepad that was used as a summit register. The valley in the distance was getting a bit of rain and it didn't take long for it to move in. It was the lightest of rain and I didn't really get wet but it helped keep the temperature down. Even though the day was overcast at times it was still hot, dry and exposed to the sun.
The views were great from the ridge from the camp to the summit. Mount Myra, Mount McBride, Phillips Mountain, Augerpoint Mountain, Sid Williams Peak, Syd Watts Peak, Mount Albert Edward, Mount Septimus, Nine Peaks, Ralph River Campground, Phillips Creek Marine Campground and so much more. It was simply stunning.
I was back at camp at 7pm. Made myself dinner and waited for sunset. It did not disappoint!
Day 2 - Camp 1 to Ruth Masters Lake (Camp 2), exploring Syd Watts Peak. 7.74km, 644m elevation gain, 598m elevation loss.
It was a clear day and after baking in the heat yesterday, today was going to be even worse. On the ridge, there are very few trees to protect you from the sun. I was fed, packed up and on the trail before 9am. I made my way to closer to Ruth Masters Lake. I found a decent tarn on the way and spent some time filling up my water and taking a break. I heard a familiar sound behind me so I looked forward in the sky. Two CF18s just blew by above Augerpoint Mountain. There was no time to get out a camera so I enjoyed the moment.
I made my way to the intersection above Ruth Masters and then South-East to get closer to Syd Watts Peak. I hid my bag on the mountain and packed my daybag. I wanted to summit this peak but with the GPS issues I was having, the exposure to the sun and finally a sketchy exposed section to descent before the final ascent I decided to turn back. There may have been an easier way down this part but I didn't want to make a poor decision because I was tired and baking in the heat.
I got close enough for now. I'll be back to try again in better weather. On the positive side, I found a frog at around 1740m of elevation. I also got to slide on my ass down this steep snow hill. Fast way down, super fun and it kept me cold for 5 minutes!
Eventually I made it back to my bag and back to the intersection above Ruth Masters Lake. I also had a lofty goal of summiting Augerpoint Mountain, to the North-East, on this day. I suppose I should have picked this mountain over Syd Watts. Instead, I don't summit either. I am just too tired of baking in the heat all day and the lure of Ruth Masters Lake below wins. I'll be back for you Augerpoint!
The trail down to Ruth Masters from this side is a steep scree slope that leads about 700 feet down into the valley. It wouldn't be too fun to make it up this section. Once at the lake you can camp on the West side or, make your way over the large boulder field and camp on the East side of the lake. I set up on the East side and had a great view of the lake. There were three other groups here which had almost all come from the Mount Washington side.
The water here was cold, fresh and was a perfect place to camp. Getting here is the challenge from either side. Maybe making this Camp 1 next time might be a better idea. There are also a few tarns above the lake with better views of the valley where you can camp. Definitely need to explore here more.
Day 3 - Ruth Masters Lake to Circlet Lake (Camp 4), Mount Albert Edward 11.09km, 854m elevation gain, 1087m elevation loss.
Day 3 was a huge day. In order to complete the traverse you have to make it up the shoulder of Mount Albert Edward. Before you can get to the shoulder, you have to descend 150m down the valley and cross this lush green valley before having to ascend 803m to the top in the exposed heat.
Because of the GPS issues, part of this section may have been harder than it needed to be. I had to climb a couple of short sections with a heavy pack on my back. There may have been a better, safer way around and up these parts but I do like a good scramble!
At 2093 meters, Mount Albert Edward is the 6th highest peak on the island. There were a few people at the summit with more coming and going slowly. I signed the register and made my way down enjoying the view, relieved the tough part was over.
I made my way to Circlet Lake and got a great spot right next to the lake. The fish were jumping all over the place but carrying a fishing rod all that way would be a bit much! Three bear caches, three outhouses, wooden tent platforms, people... Civilization... yuck.
Day 4 - Circlet Lake to home. 10km, 298m elevation gain, 408m elevation loss.
I had paid for an extra day at Circlet just in case. Maybe I would have enough energy to do the Castlecrag/Mount Frink Loop around Moat Lake. Nope!
The heat was unrelenting, my feet and back were sore. I had no problem leaving those two mountains for a future trip.
I was at the parking lot around 12pm where my vehicle was waiting for me and made a quick stop at Traceys work to surprise her.
I set some lofty goals for this trip and although I didn't complete them all I completed the trip, made it home safe and left myself some goals for the future! Definitely still a win!
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